A report from Tokyo I have write for UntitleDV Blog
I have meet Andrea Da Villa at Pitti Uomo 83 when he was there to take some picture of my personal project 1ST PAT-RN.
Andrea is the owner of the UntitleDV blog an interesting window on the world of fashion, culture, design, that I really recommend.
I wrote this article for the blog of Andrea after my recent trip to Tokyo, and I was very happy to share it on UntitleDV: enjoy!
Report from Tokyo | Spring Summer 2013
Last work for Redmark is arrived at the office
This is some preview of the SS2014 collection from Redmark, one of my historic customer from which I design the collection of hangtags, labels and accessories for the "denim and sportswear line" each season from about 2006/7.
For the SS2014 I think they have made an amazing work with my designs.
I really suggest you to contact them for viewing the latest collection, but also the previous season (there are a lot of them to check!) via their website for a meeting.
I'm sure you will find something special to enhance your product, and you will be surprised for the professional service and reliable quality of the company.
The year is finishing. I hope a new adventure will start.
Il 2012 si presta ormai a concludersi, la fine del mondo auspicata dai Maya non si è vista e ci stiamo tutti apprestando a fare progetti e programmi per il 2013.
Tutto continua insomma.
E questo momento, che per chi fa il mio lavoro si presenta senza soluzione di continuità, visto gli imminenti impegni tra produzione, fiere e studio delle collezioni SS2014, può anche essere il momento di riflettere su alcuni punti che riguardano appunto l'ambito del lavoro… io comincio con un'affermazione: nel 2012 nel settore dell'abbigliamento se ne sono viste di cotte e di crude.
La maggior parte delle cose che ho visto mi sono piaciute e mi hanno confermato che la mia ben nota visione sullo spostamento lento, ma costante e regolare dei mercati internazionali sui prodotti ben fatti, ben progettati, con una loro anima, fabbricati in Italia, con materiali Italiani e cultura Italiana non era solo la visione di un designer "un pò poeta" come amava definirmi un mio caro amico e cliente* con cui spesso si discuteva di questi aspetti, ma una strategia precisa dei clienti internazionali, soprattutto di mercati come quello Giapponese, ma anche di altri paesi Asiatici e di cultura "qualitativa".
Ma se questo vale per i clienti esteri e per pochi, rari clienti storici Italiani, che ormai si contano forse sulle dita di una mano (come Protec di Bologna, per citarne uno soltanto) per la maggior parte delle aziende Italiane è un concetto che deve ancora "arrivare".
Nel 2012 ho avuto alcuni incontri e discussioni con imprenditori che mi hanno convocato per nuovi progetti o evoluzioni del loro prodotto verso un livello superiore, proprio perchè conoscono la mia visione e la mia cultura di design e di costruzione strategica del prodotto (che non comprende solo lo stile) ma ciò che mi ha colpito è stato che la maggior parte di loro parlava di argomentazioni che onestamente mi parevano in netto contrasto con quanto loro in realtà mi chiedevano di fare.
La maggior parte di loro iniziava la riunione citandomi uno o due competitor di successo (o presunto successo e generalmente in segmenti di mercato diversi da quello a cui loro anelavano!) e mi chiedeva come si poteva copiarli o prendere spunto da quello che facevano, parlandomi poi di "portare via" in una o due stagioni (gli imprenditori Italiani hanno sempre una fretta bestiale!) quote di mercato a questo o quel brand, con prodotti "furbi" (cit. "acquistiamo in Cina a basso prezzo, applichiamo un mark up consistente grazie alla forza del nostro marchio (sic) e ci guadagniamo una bella differenza").
Ora, sul termine prodotti "furbi" e sulla loro progettazione, confesso che non sono ancora sufficientemente preparato.
Non ho neppure, a dire il vero, una grossa preparazione sul "furto" di quote di mercato.
Ma so di essere piuttosto bravo a capire che queste logiche sono vecchie, superate e oserei dire anche un pò tristi.
E sono anche molto lontane da come lavoro io, ma soprattutto da come ho sempre lavorato.
Però questo è ancora il sentire di molte aziende e marchi Italiani, che io vedo paralizzate su stilemi obsoleti, su deja vu disarmanti, su concetti di progettazione antiquati.
I designer che "girano" da noi e che progettano le collezioni di molti brand del settore sportswear, denim, casual sono sempre gli stessi, ed il conseguente risultato è che tutto è appiattito su uno o due nomi che vivono ancora di situazioni personali storiche (a suo tempo) favorevoli ma che altro non fanno che citarsi in continuazione, evitando di esplorare nuove strade e senza il coraggio di essere invece propositivi e innovativi: di fare quindi il loro lavoro.
Le stesse aziende, mi capita di vedere, quando mi illustrano nelle loro collezioni quello che gli ha fatto "questo o quel" collega, mi appaiono onestamente un pò spaesate.
Vedo in più aziende lo stesso pantalone, la stessa giacca, la stessa grafica di t-shirt e quando dico: "ma è uguale a quello di questo o quel marchio!" la risposta è quasi sempre: "ma lo stilista mi ha detto che questo modello certamente farà i numeri perchè ce l'hanno tutti in collezione"
I numeri. Ce l'hanno tutti in collezione.
Ecco, quando sento questi ragionamenti mi rendo conto che probabilmente i "numeri" questo o quel capo copiato potranno anche farli sul nostro mercato stantio, ma sono numeri effimeri, che danno un breve beneficio all'azienda, perchè rincorrere le tendenze con una o due stagione di ritardo o lavorare con designer che basano la loro progettazione sullo shopping che poi "rigirano" pari pari a tutti i loro clienti con piccole modifiche è un modo penoso e obsoleto di costruire il futuro.
E qui mi rendo conto di quanto io sia diverso e di quanto questo essere diverso sia un bene.
La crisi, a guardare bene, forse è nata anche per questo… le persone non entrano più con piacere nei negozi, perchè non trovano più nulla di interessante, i negozianti di conseguenza non pagano più bene i loro fornitori o si sono appiattiti su posizioni stanche e depressive perchè vengono ancora subissati di prodotti tutti uguali che si differenziano probabilmente solo per un logo, a prezzi spesso esagerati rispetto al loro valore vero e che finiscono per non attrarre più il consumatore finale: che guarda caso si rivolge a prodotti più "autentici", più "di qualità", più di "ricerca".
Molti buyer Italiani che si vedono alle fiere sono quasi dei walkin deads che "ciabattano" di stand in stand, senza sapere neppure cosa cercano… perchè poi, alla fine, sanno già che faranno sempre l'ordine dal solito marchio che, magari, si è inventato l'ennesima variazione sul tema dei teschi o delle grafiche ironiche, piuttosto che l'ennesimo pantalone da donna skinny colorato, magari fluo (tanto per non sbagliare).
Spero davvero che questo sistema si accorga che la nostra produzione di marchi nei settori del casual, dello sportswear e del denim è fortemente povero di contenuti e ricco di fumo.
Spero davvero che nuove aziende o le aziende che hanno in mano grossi brand e che hanno potuto dire la loro, possano avere il coraggio di percorrere strade nuove, di aprirsi a sperimentazioni e innovazioni a tornare a lavorare come si lavorava alla fine degli anni 80 e come si è lavorato fino alla fine degli anni 90: quando sono state scritte pagine di grande successo gettando le basi di una produzione Italiana sia a livello creativo, che produttivo che tutto il mondo ci invidiava e che adesso è solo l'ombra di se stessa.
Scrivevo, nel titolo, di una nuova avventura che spero inizi nel 2013.
Un'avventura che coinvolga le aziende Italiane che si occupano di moda a tutti i livelli spingendole a ricominciare ad avere il coraggio di seguire vie personali, strade innovative, metodologie diverse di lavoro, a fare ricerca e sviluppo (e non a tagliarla, in nome di una presunta crisi che nel settore dell'abbigliamento sportswear nasce proprio per gli errori fatti!) a lavorare con designer che seguono la loro via e che si sono prefissi di essere coerenti, onesti e soprattutto coraggiosi.
Vedremo come va, io sono fiducioso, il percorso è iniziato e la strada è segnata: chi non se ne è accorto è destinato alla scomparsa, chi inizia a muoversi in questa direzione invece, potrà sperare in una nuova era di grande successo.
Intanto per chi ha voglia di farsi una chiacchierata con me e magari bere un buon caffè, sarò, come sempre, a Pitti Uomo Edizione 83 dal 8 al 11 gennaio 2013, presso Sala della Ronda B al booth 17, dove presenterò il progetto 1ST PAT-RN e dove incontrerò anche i clienti per iniziare a discutere delle nuove collezioni per la SS2014.
Vi aspetto e nel frattempo auguro a tutti i miei clienti e amici un Natale ricco di pace e un grandioso 2013!
Cristiano
* Il 2012 ha visto anche andarsene un amico, prima di tutto, e poi un grande imprenditore e mio cliente storico che delle filosofie di cui parlo era un precursore, una persona che ha sempre seguito la sua strada, che ha innovato, creato e progettato da zero, con cui lavorare era un privilegio e un continuo scambio (a volte duro e difficile, è vero) che arricchiva comunque sempre, un imprenditore che chiedeva al sottoscritto di fare cose nuove, di percorrere nuove vie, di andare sempre per la sua strada.
Mi definiva il "poeta"… ma forse lo era più lui di me.
Ciao Nicola.
Midori 2013 Diary from Miscellaneous Shop | Amsterdam
This year I have decide to change definitely the Diary set that I ever had from long time, I mean the minimal and simple MUJI "agenda" that is nice and very useful... but I was looking for something more "poetic" and exclusive made.
In my last trip to Japan I have seen the Midori Traveller concept at Tokyu Hands Dept. Store but for some reason I have not decide to buy, of course as usual when I'm coming back to home I regret not having done it.
So I was very happy to discover that not far from here, in Netherlands, the Miscellaneous shop stock the complete Midori concept for the traveller's book.
I have ordered a little bit advanced set that will include few very useful "gadgets" to better use the diary, like a plain note pad, some stickers to attach items on the pages (like the nice envelopes you will see in my pictures below) a transparent envelope with zipper to store receipts and small items and of course 2013 diary.
The cover is made in leather, a really nice tanned vegetable leather that is soft but in the same time "firm", with a easy and simple system you can set up the elements like books, notepads and diary and built your favorite set.
Miscellaneous also offer a series of interesting add-on for the set and you'll enjoy to see the so many options available.
Together with the set I have ordered a nice combo made by Kaweco: a Sport Fountain Pen and Pencil with their pouch.
I have choose to try the fountain pen even if my last usage of those instrument was very very far!
I have to say that the design and the quality of Kaweco set is outstanding, I really appreciate the fact that they manufacture the same model without changing design from 1935 and this is remarkable.
The Miscellaneous shop also send me a gift: a 2012 diary set... Thank You so much!
Everything is arrived very fast and the packaging was really nice, I would really recommend Miscellaneous shop.
If you want to know more about Midori and other rare stationery brands and other intelligent and nice stuff not easy to find in Europe, please, take a look at: http://www.misc-store.com
One of the most interesting shop in Tokyo: Wild Life Tailor
Don't miss it, if you are in Tokyo.
I had the honor to meet the buyer staff of WLT during the trade show of my collection www.1stpat-rn in the past august.
It was a great opportunity to learn about fabric knowledge and good taste.
http://wildlifetailor.adametrope.com
GRP | Realizzato ad arte in Toscana
This a new piece that I have recently purchase for the next fall-winter.
As usual and as this is my philosophy from lot of time , I only buy things (of any kind) that got a soul and give me emotion, I don't buy by brand or by trend.
I love to buy items made with care and quality, items that show how much attention and passion was spent to create them.
Yesterday I've spend a day in what I think is one of the best concept store in Italy: PROTEC in Bologna.
Fabrizio, always kind and always spreading knowledge to friends and customers and that select and introduce in the shop only high quality brands, introduce me this vest.
GRP is a brand that I have admired from his born, but I didn't expect to find here easily in Italy before to meet it in PROTEC.
GRP knitwear it's a product "Fatto ad Arte in Toscana" that is absolutely more to say "Made in Italy" as they explain in their hangtag (and it's nice that in 1ST PAT-RN my own brand I have decide two years ago to use a similar philosophy to tell to the customer that the product, in fact, is "more" than a Made in Italy product, as we have choose "Fabbricazione Italiana" to explain our manufacturing) and It's made with the best yarn you can find all around the world: Australian Supergeelong, Merino, Lambswool, Pima and so on.
All this yarns will be worked in the best way you'll ever seen in a series of pieces that are not seeing often in the knitwear panorama.
In fact what I like of GRP is that they made lot of items that bring inspiration form others fields of fashion, I means jackets and coats, as well as vest and capes: all of them are classic work, tailored and outdoor inspired items, realized in knitting technology and this make the difference from other manufacturers.
Take this vest I have purchase for myself.
It is cut like a woven fabric vest: little bit shorter that the usual, like those tailored vest you will wear with a suit jacket.
It is made with a very nice workmanship in a selection of ribs one different from each other and this ribs create borders and details you can discover only if you spend time to study the vest.
Take the back for example, it show some very nice details made with ribs: you'll be sure you didn't find a similar workmanship in any other knitwear!
Details in some kind of light melton are used on the side and to profile the vest to add more strengthness where you have to close the vest.
The fitting also it's so nice, I'm not a thin man and my body is not what you can tell as "athletic" you know, and usually I was always force myself buy a size up to wear items that fit me, but this was not a good options because you'll always feel that you are not in you correct size: it's also matter of feeling well in your mind inside a garment, not only in your body!
I try this medium size and it looks great on me, not too slim, not too large, it just works very good on my body, so I think it will fit great on other guys!
So, I'm very happy to introduce you this brand, and very happy to be a customer of GRP.
Thanks Fabrizio of PROTEC to show me this vest and congrats to Maglificio GRP Staff for his great job on knitwear!
take a look also at PROTEC concept store:
www.clotheswithadestiny.com/
www.protecbologna.com
A very important trip
The end of August see me moving for a very important trade show in Tokyo, where I will meet the new distributor (I will update the contacts ASAP!) for 1ST PAT-RN for the very important Japanese market, that have shown a very deep knowledge and interest on the collection, and where we try to show to top customers the job I've done with my brother Alessio trying to translate tailoring cut and tailored construction to a very difficult to work material: the knitted Cavalry.
Knitted Cavalry, and his brother the Knitted Oxford are some of the most new fabrics I ever seen and they are very innovative in the way they can let you worn a very casual, but elegant and tailored suit jacket, I have call this style: soft-tailored.
Those materials are "live": they fit your body exactly how the denim does, when you wear them, they bring the forms of your body, they "moves" with you with the incredible relaxed comfort that only the knitting material can give, but without the loose look of the sweatshirt material, so you can wear 1ST PAT-RN jacket like your favorite tailored blazer... with shirt and tie... or with a t-shirt in a casual and easy way.
But the feature that bring them in a new perspective is that aside from the denim, when you wash them they have the property to come back to initial status, this let you wear the jacket in a very easy and comfortable wear.
We are working day by day to improve this feature and also we are trying new solutions for the fall and winter collection, where we will try lined and dry clean only new models made with wool blend yarn, to have the most and perfect tailored experience for some styles: 1ST PAT-RN is an amazing work in progress and we are very happy to make this steps in a new direction of knitted fabrics.
New Catalogs for SS-2013 are just arrived, and you will see some personal styles I have create to show my concepts of wearing of my jackets... the catalog will be available from the start of the SS-1013 delivery season through the most important customer and I will release on the 1ST PAT-RN website the list.
More news from japan will be updated via my Twitter and Facebook profile... so, keep in touch ;)
And... Tokyo, we are coming!
"La Britola": an handmade knife made in Valdobbiadene
A few nights ago I spent some hours in the streets of my small village where he holds an annual craft fair, very famous, not only in this area, but with visits from all over Italy and neighboring countries.
One of the artisans that struck me most was the creator of the so-called "Britola" a small knife in use above all among the farmers of the area, making it the instrument of all days, both at work (which may be the pruning of the vines sparkling wine) than in normal daily activities like peeling an apple, cut a piece of bread or cheese.
The production is totally handmade, the blade is hand forged and during the exhibition can also see the craftsman who works directly on a Britola then you can buy directly.
Anyone who knows me knows very well how much I adore things that come from the hands of artisans, of this passion I made my way to work everyday, so I have already secured one of these "britole" (I have choose a special type with a different kind of blade shape) to be placed in the small handcrafted items collection that occasionally remind me of the great value of the area in which I live and where every day there are people who create and disseminate great knowledge.
You can follow the Facebook profile of "Britola" or visit the website:
2ND Magazine Snap | Pitti Uomo
As every month I have receive my copy of 2ND magazine and it was nice to see me and my bro, "the tailor" (www.thetailorsupport.com) pictured in the Pitti Uomo 82 reportage.
Please enjoy my 1ST PAT-RN New Editor jacket in Yarn Dyed Cavalry that actually is one of the best seller of the 1ST PAT-RN collection.
More info on 1ST PAT-RN here: www.1stpat-rn.it and if you want to be updated on 1ST PAT-RN project follow the Facebook profile: http://www.facebook.com/pages/1ST-PAT-RN/173020639425812
I don't know what the guys of 2ND Magazine say about us... but I thanks them very much for the pic!!
Tanner Goods Belt and Cards Holder Review
After having seen a video on Selectism.com where a craftsmen at Tanner Goods made a belt, from a rough piece of leather I have decide to purchase, with the fine effort of the Tanner staff in Portland, Ore. where the Tanner Goods belts and accessories are manufacturing, a couple of belts and a very useful Cards holder, handcrafted at the factory by expert craftsmen.
After having worn and use for a while the items I'd like to write here my feelings about it.
Actually I'm wearing the STANDARD BELT, HAVANA COLOR with S.STEEL BUKLE and in my tote bags is sit the card holder, full of business card ready to use, I can say that they are part of my daily wardrobe and essential items to carry with me in the work tote bag.
Both are ade with probably one of the best leather I've try in the last few items I have purchase, the Tanner goods belts and accessories, are cut from "vegetable tanned English Bridle American leather renowned for it’s ability to age beautifully and gain character over years of use. Traditionally used in saddlery and heritage leather goods, English Bridle leather gains color and marks of distinction like no other leather".
The finish is smooth and very nice at the touch, but the weight and the feeling when around the waist is of rugged item and give a sensation of reliability and high quality, I have use the belt for more than one month, every single day and the belt is like new... you feel the leather is like "live" and sit around the waist like is "cut" on you: I never feel this kind of sensation before.
The manufacturing is supreme: the idea of the two press buttons that allow to change the buckle too, add a simple but interesting function to the belt: You can change the position of the button and gain a size if you want.
Each single detail is made with care, as you will see in the video, the manufacturing process is not simple and when you have the item in your hand you can understand why.
The color I prefer is the Havana, but in the website (where they are able to sell all over the world and assist you in every single step) lot of colors are available, I have choose to purchase also a a skinny type belt for my girlfriend in "natural" color with "brass buckle" and I think than my next purchase will be for sure a color like this, that is so useful and very nice especially to match a pair of military green fatigue trousers.
I am a 36 inch waist size and I was advised by the staff to purchase a 38 size belt, and I have to say that is correct to buy a upper size if you decide to buy a Tanner Goods belt, the latest hole is the correct size, so I have to see that the measures are perfectly intende, so if you gain a little bit of weight you have another four holes... this way the bel will serve you forever!
Even if you loose weight, you can ad a hole in a simple way.
The card holder is designed very weel and contains all your business card or credit cards while you are travelling and give fast access to your items, it is made with the same quality and attention of the belts, I love this small card holder and at recently Pitti Uomo fair in Florence, while exchanging business cards with customers, everybody like it and ask me where I have bought!
Finally, a couple of words about the shipment.
I've received the items in a very short time via the FedEx courier, they arrived here in a very nice box, carefully packed: as I love stationery, packaging, type of papers... I was very pleased to open the parcel and see all this natural style papers and cardboards, to see the care they have put to wrap the belts in a raw natural paper.
The touch of craftsmanship is enhanced by the ink stamp on the cardboard and the envelope...
Definitely I have to say that Tanner Goods, not only take care seriously at the product, put great care in communication and assistance for the customer, but they care all the small details and this is what I like from a company, it's the same care I put in every aspect of my job, every day, for my customer: actually I think there's no way to do serious and professional business in a world full of low priced/higher markup items, made without any care for the customer and without any soul, create just to make faster money.
You can buy the top quality items fromTanner Goods in some of the best shops of the world, or directly via their website.
Original Video of the manufacturing process: